Barbecue in Llano

On the westernmost edge of the barbecue belt likes the community of Llano. In the 1880s Llano was a boom town, filled with rock hounds in search of minerals: garnet, amethyst, and even gold. Today the gold is found in this hill country town's barbecue joints. What makes Llano unique among the central Texas barbecue towns is its cooking style. Most pit masters in this town rely on indirect barbecuing. In a firebox, wood burns down to coals, then it's transferred to the main section of the pit beneath the meat. Here it imparts a delicate smoky taste that is subtler than can be achieved through ordinary smoking.

One of the best known pits in town is Cooper's Old Time Pit Barbecue (TX 29 W.), owned by Terry Wootan and family. You won't find a more genuine-looking barbecue joint in Texas than Cooper's. From its huge rectangular pits located by the front door to the dining room lined with loaves of white bread and jars of jalapeño peppers, this is the real thing.

Before entering the restaurant you'll walk past those pits, but don't rush by. This is where you place your order. The pit master opens the huge pits to reveal a king's treasure: brisket, pork ribs, beef ribs, chicken, cabrito (goat), sausage, sirloin steak, and pork chops. Select the cut and the amount you want. The pit man will carve it off and drop it on some butcher paper for you to take inside for weighing.

Cooper’s has brought the attention of the world to Texas barbecue, thanks in part to President George W. Bush. While his father often selected Otto’s Barbecue in Houston, today’s President opts for Cooper’s smoky meats. Cooper’s drew national attention when it catered a lunch for Republican governors at the Crawford ranch.

While Cooper’s ranks highly with the chief executive, others opt for Laird's Bar-B-Q Pit Restaurant (1600 South Ford St.). Kenneth Laird was once the pit master for the late Tommy Cooper and, in 1986, took his smoky skills across town to start his own pit. Housed in a former two-story home, the dine-in or take-out restaurant serves up pork, beef, sausage, ribs and chicken, with sides of beans, potato salad and homemade desserts.

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