Smitty's Pit Bar-B-Que, El Paso

From 1955 to 1976, Smitty's was the pit of Mr. Smith. Since that bicentennial year, though, Smitty's has been smokin' with the meats of Irene and Heriberto Payan and their son, Eddie, producing some of El Paso's best loved barbecue using the original recipes.

Located just down the road from the El Paso International Airport, it's been the first stop for many a traveler to this West Texas city. And with good reason. Tender briskets, marinated 24 to 48 hours before cooking, are packed with all the smoky flavor of Smitty's pit, an enormous brick contraption that cooks 240 pounds at a time. The barbecued beans are cooked in the pit as well.

Deciding where to sit is easy: The restaurant has just a counter and booths, nary a table in sight. The hard part is deciding what to order: brisket, corned beef, ham, turkey, pork, hot links, or pork or beef ribs. We had the brisket, tender and flavorful, the hot links, a combination of pork and beef made here in the restaurant, and the pork ribs, some of the best we've enjoyed.

We also tried the corned beef, and found this smoky creation one of our favorites, with a firmer consistency than brisket and filled with a wonderful combination of flavors. The meats are offered with two kinds of barbecue sauce, a mild version and a spicy edition that we loved. A small dish of peppers also arrives with every meal.

All the plates here include coleslaw, barbecued beans, and a Smitty specialty: German fried potatoes.

Location: 6219 Airport Rd. at Montana St.

Tel. (915) 772-5876

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