How good is Goode? Find out for yourself. Step in line in this building constructed to look like an old-fashioned barn and order up some tasty brisket. Or crusty pork ribs. Or moist chicken or ham. Or for something different, smoked duck. Duck? In a Texas barbecue joint? What is this world coming to?

Have no fear. Even though Goode serves duck (not to mention Texas wines), there's no hint at snootiness in this joint. Just have a look around at the cord wood stacked outside, the neon beer signs, and even the armadillo decorating the place. But decor does not a barbecue joint make, its product does. And one taste of the Goode meats will tell you that this isn't just good, it's goode.

Besides some delicious barbecue, there's also a full offering of side dishes here, far more exotic than the typical beans and potato salad. Look for jalapeño-laced pintos and, our favorite, a cheesy jalapeño bread.

Location:

• Original restaurant: 5109 Kirby (between Southwest Fwy. and Bissonet). (713) 522-2530.
• Full list of Goode Company Barbecue restaurants

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