Cooper's Old Time Pit Barbecue, Llano

Once named his favorite barbecue restaurant by then Texas Governor George W. Bush, Cooper's has long been one of the best known pits in Texas. From its huge rectangular pits located by the front door to the dining room dotted with loaves of white bread and jars of jalapeño peppers, Cooper's is a true Texas bbq joint.

Cooper's is the legacy of the late Tommy Cooper, whose father operated another Cooper's in Mason. During Tommy Cooper's reign over what many consider to be Llano's best barbecue joint, local pitmaster Kenneth Laird world alongside the master. Today Laird has his own Llano restaurant: Laird's Bar-B-Q Pit.

Before you step foot in this Llano restaurant (located about 80 miles west of Austin), you will walk past those pits and place your order. At the pit, the pitmaster opens the huge vaults to reveal a king's treasure: brisket, pork ribs, beef ribs, chicken, goat, sausage, sirloin steak, and pork chops.

Name the meat (brisket is the top choice) and the amount and the pit man will carve it off and drop it on some butcher paper for you to take inside for weighing.

Inside, pick up some potato salad or chips, then head to the cinderblock dining room. Here simple rows of picnic tables are topped with white bread and condiments. The room is usually filled with Llano locals, deer hunters, and travelers alike.

In the back of the dining room, cauldrons hold pinto beans and sauce. Help yourself. The sauce is tart with vinegar, a thin concoction that makes a good dip for the white bread that's yours for the taking.

When you're done, just drop your silverware in the utility sink and head reluctantly on your way.

Location: 604 W. Young, Llano

Tel. 915-247-5713

Hours: Open Monday - Saturday for lunch and dinner.

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