Smitty's Market, Lockhart

Since 1900, this location was the home of Kreuz Market, a no-frills barbecue joint that was a legend in Texas. Barbecue shoulder clod, a cut that's leaner than brisket and also cooks faster, was the specialty of the house; brisket, pork loin, and prime rib were also for sale here.

No matter what kind of meat you ordered, it was cooked in the huge pits system devised by "Smitty" Schmidt, who bought the restaurant from its original owner in 1948. Until 1999, the smokehouse was run by Schmidt then his two sons. In 1999, the family divided the business: sister Nina Schmidt Sells took the building and brother Rick took the name, moving it to a new building that housed Kreuz Market.

Today the original brick building is home to Smitty's Market, which still operates much as the original. Two brick pits burn oak logs, and a 35-foot chimney draws smoke over the meat, which does not sit directly over the fire. The specialsinclude brisket, pork chops and sausage with ribs on the weekends. Unlike the original, side dishes are sold here including potato salad, cole slaw, and beans.

To escape the heat of those pits, Kreuz's now features two air-conditioned dining rooms. Some of the locals still like to sit in the old section, filled with smoke and heat. Give it a try and feel like a real Texan.

Location: 208 South Commerce St., Lockhart

Tel. (512) 398-9344

Open: Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner

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