Louie Mueller Barbecue, Taylor

This restaurant, located in the barbecue capital of Taylor about 35 miles northeast of Austin, is housed in a barbecue joints so authentic it could be a movie set, one complete with a slamming screen door, smoke-covered walls, and giant fans that provide the only cool breeze on a hot summer day. The walls are streaked with smoke and dotted with local business cards now as dark as brown grocery sacks thanks to the smoky haze.

Not one to waste money on fancy gimmicks like plates, Mueller's serves their barbecue on a piece of white butcher paper. Don't waste time looking for a menu here either. There's a moveable letter board on one wall with the offerings. (A few letters are missing, but everyone knows what Louie Mueller's has, and everyone knows what he wants.) Pick from brisket, served regular or extra lean, sausage, pork ribs, chopped beef, or steak. Grab a tray, step up to the counter, and the cook will carve off a slice of meat to satisfy your own proportions.

For a side dish, opt for coleslaw, beans, or potato salad, a flavorful mixture of mashed potatoes spiced with onions and celery.

Meats are served with a cup of sauce on the side; the tomatoey broth is spiced with a Texas-sized helping of black pepper. Not hot enought? Look for bottles of homemade vinegar and chili pepper sauce on every table.

Location: 206 W. Second Street, Taylor

Tel. 512-352-6206

Hours: Open Monday - Saturday 10 a.m. until the barbecue runs out; Sunday 11 a.m. - 3 p.m.

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