Rudy Mikeska's Bar-B-Q, Taylor

During his lifetime, Rudy Mikeska was the dean of Texas pitmasters. If there was a political function to be held, whether it was a policemen's fundraiser or a governor's inauguration, Rudy Mikeska and his barbecue meats were there.

In Texas the Mikeska name is synonymous with barbecue, thanks to Rudy and his brothers, Maurice, Clem, Jerry, Mike, and Louis. Each man founded his own barbecue restaurant, spread throughout the state in Taylor, Temple, El Campo, Columbus, and Smithville (that location has now changed hands).

This accomplishment made Texas Monthly proclaim the brothers "The First Family of Texas Barbecue." Their restaurants were no chain of pits, however; each man had his own preferences and his own way of preparing barbecue. "We're a very close family," explains CEO Tim Mikeska, "but we all do things a little different." You may visit all the locations, but don't expect to see identical menus or taste identical food.

Rudy died in 1989, but he left a legacy of legendary barbecue that his children Tim and Mopsie continue. Step inside the bright red building in downtown Taylor and have a look around at the dozens of pictures of Rudy Mikeska and the wheelers and dealers of Texas. You'll find photos of politicians on every level here, posing beside Mikeska at various events he catered. You'll also see plaques of appreciation and awards from barbecue contests like Taylor's International Barbecue Cookoff.

But judge for yourself. Step up to the cafeteria line and order up a plate. You'll find lamb ribs on the menu, but the popular favorites are brisket, sausage, and pork ribs. The sausage is made using Mikeska's own recipe, thin links full of peppery fire. The potato salad is creamy and chunky, a good way to cool the burn. The pinto beans are flavorful but not too spicy. You can also have fried potatoes and onions, and some homemade white bread.

Save room for the banana pudding. It is chock full of banana slices and wafers, a real tribute to the favorite dessert in all barbecue joints and to the man who made this one a legend.

Location: 300 W. 2nd St., Taylor

Tel.(512) 352-5561 or (800) 962-5706

Hours: open Tuesday-Saturday

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