Castroville, Texas: Where the Old Meets the New

Imagine a place where the 19th century joins modern times, treating visitors to modern conveniences and comforts in an Old World atmosphere. Add to this a gazpacho of cultures, a blend of French, German, English and Spanish with a heavy dose of Alsatian heritage.

What you have is Castroville, located only 20 miles west of San Antonio. This town, nicknamed "The Little Alsace of Texas," may be nearby the Alamo City but in terms of mood and atmosphere it is in another world. The community was founded by Frenchman Henri Castro, who contracted with the Republic of Texas to bring settlers from Europe. These pioneers came from the French province of Alsace in 1844, bringing with them the Alsatian language, a Germanic dialect. Today only the oldest residents of Castroville carry on the mother tongue.

Traditional Alsatian houses sport European-style, nonsymmetrical, steeply sloping roofs. To have a look at this distinctive architecture, take a self-guided tour of Old Castroville. Pick up a free map from the Castroville Chamber of Commerce (802 London Street). This town boasts 97 historic homes and buildings, including Henri Castro's homestead, a 1910 meat market, an 1854 gristmill, and homes dating back to the earliest pioneers. The entire section known as Old Castroville is now a National Historic District.

But perhaps the best way to absorb the atmosphere of Castroville is with a stay in one of its bed-and-breakfast inns. The most famous is the Landmark Inn, operated by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department. This inn was first a home and general store before becoming the Vance Hotel. Robert E. Lee and Bigfoot Wallace, the famous Texas Ranger, were said to have stayed at the hotel that was renamed the Landmark Inn during World War II.

Today's guests select from ten historic rooms decorated with antique furnishings. The absence of telephones and televisions helps transport visitors back to the previous century, when visitors to the hotel enjoyed a welcome rest from the stagecoaches traveling the Old San Antonio El Paso Road. All rooms including air-conditioning and heating; four rooms including a private bath. Guests enjoy a continental breakfast served in the 1849 kitchen.

The Landmark inn is just one of many bed-and-breakfasts in Castroville. You'll also find historic accommodations at the charming Henri Castro Guesthouse Bed and Breakfast, located on the grounds of the Henri Castro Homestead. Visitors can also call Castroville's First Bed and Breakfast Registry (800-329-9622) for information on accommodations.

With Castroville's rich history, it's not surprising that the community is a magnet for antiques dealers. Antiques shops dot the downtown area. Park and walk the historic streets with names like Paris, London, Madrid, and Petersburg where you'll find shops offering furniture, glassware, china, pottery, and collectibles of all kinds.

If all that walking works up your appetite, then head to a local restaurant. One of the most popular is The Alsatian (403 Angelo Street), open daily for lunch and Thursday through Sunday for dinner. Housed in a historic 19th century cottage typical of the provincial homes of Castroville, this restaurant specializes in Alsatian and German food, including spicy Alsatian sausage, Jagerschnitzel, and German Style Pork Chops. For something lighter, try Haby's Alsatian Bakery (207 US 290 E.) Try to choose from apple strudel, molasses cookies, and fresh baked breads.

Castroville hosts many special events through the year. Every September, antiques dealers from around the country come to town for an antique show. Shoppers should also mark on their calendars the second Saturday from March through December, when Castroville hosts the Market Trail Days, a shopping extravaganza with everything from arts and crafts to antiques to food.

Whether you come to shop, tour, or dine, the local residents have one bit of Alsatian advice: "Kum Sah Castroville" or "Come See Castroville!"

For more information:

• http://www.castroville.com/
  
  

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