San Antonio's Mission Trail

Mention the missions of San Antonio, and most people think you're referring to the Alamo. But San Antonio is home to four other Spanish missions from the same period, each giving visitors a sense of both the Franciscan missionaries and the Indians who made the missions their home.

Texas at one time hosted 38 Spanish missions that served to convert the Indians to Catholicism and to enforce the claim of Spain to the area. The San Antonio missions all sprang up near the river, which supplied water for crop irrigation. The water was channeled to the missions by means of an acequia or irrigation ditch.

Today those structures are found along the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, which stretches for nine miles along the San Antonio River. In a day, you can enjoy a leisurely, self-guided tour of the missions, each located in residential neighborhoods and devoid of the crowds that often plague their more famous cousin, the Alamo.

The first stop on Mission Trail is Mission Concepcion (807 Mission Rd.). This site is tucked into a residential neighborhood, a quiet place far different from the bustling Alamo area. Concepcion (pronounced "con-cep-see-OWN") was moved here in 1731 from East Texas. Its full name is a mouthful: Mission of Nuestra Señora de la Purisima Concepcion de Acuña.

Begin your visit with a stop at the modern visitors center to pick up a free Park Service brochure (a necessity for driving the Mission Trail), then start your self-guided tour of the chapel. The flagstone floor has borne thousands of worshippers, from barefooted Indians two centuries ago to tennis-shoed tourists today. Indeed, be sure that you do wear tennis shoes, or some type of sturdy walking shoes, for the mission tours. All the sites have irregular staircases and stone walkways that are especially slippery on rainy days.

Mission Concepcion is especially notable for its wall paintings. Geometric and religious symbols in ochre, blue, and brown decorate the ceilings and walls of several rooms. The most striking is an image once called the "Eye of the God," through cleaning now revealed to be a face emanating rays of light.

Displays at each of the four missions illustrate different aspects of mission life. At Concepcion, the theme is "The Mission as a Religious Center," appropriate for a place known as one of the oldest unrestored stone churches as well as the oldest unrestored Catholic church in the nation.

Like the Alamo just over two miles to the north, Mission Concepcion saw its own share of bloodshed. On October 28, 1835, Colonel James Bowie and 20 Texans were surprised by a detachment of the Mexican army. They fought well and forced the Mexicans, with 60 dead and 40 wounded, to retreat. The Texans only suffered one loss, further bolstering their spirits. Less than five months later, however, Bowie and his men would again fight the Mexican army, with far less success.

The second mission stop on the trail is the grandest in terms of size and architectural detail, so much so, in fact, that it was termed "Queen of the Missions." In its heyday Mission San Jose (6539 San Jose Dr.) boasted 300 residents, a granary that held 5,000 bushels of corn, and elaborate ornamentation. Its full name is San José y Miguel de Agüayo, named for the Governor of Coahuila Texas at the time of its founding.

You may find yourself humming "Do You Know the Way to San Jose?" when traveling the mission route to this second site. The route mapped by the Park Service is the most scenic but not the most direct. Just follow the signs, and be patient; when you do reach San Jose, the drive will have been worth the effort. Thanks to an extensive renovation in 1936 for the Texas Centennial, this mission is in spectacular condition.

The elegant structure echoes with reminders of an earlier time, when Texas was a frontier and this mission was a haven in an unsettled land. The most famous detail here is "Rosa's Window." Legend has it that a carpenter named Pedro Huizar created the window for his lost love, Rosa. (When you're downtown, look at the Dillard's exterior window displays at the Rivercenter Mall. These are copies of Rosa's Window, built by the former Joske's store.)

Walk around the grounds to get an idea of the size of this former community. Indians lived in rooms along the outside wall, and the priests lived in the two-story convento. The land in the quadrangle was used for a work area. The theme of San José is "The Mission as Social Center and a Center for Defense." A diorama located in the granary details a day in the life of those living at the mission.

Continue south along mission trail and you'll soon pass Espada Park and Acequia Parks. (Skip this route on rainy days.) Picnic tables afford a good place to take a scenic break halfway through the trail. The San Antonio River winds between these parks. At one time, acequias wound along both sides of the river; today only the one in Espada Park is active. Mission San Juan (9102 Graff Rd.), fully named San Juan Capistrano, was once completely self-sustaining, supplying all its own needs from cloth to crops. San Juan provided not only for its own agricultural needs, but it also supplied other communities in the area. Skilled artisans made ironwork and leather goods and wove cloth in the workshops.

To appreciate the natural richness of this area, take a hike on the San Juan Woodlands Trail. In about one-third of a mile, the trail winds along the low river bottom land and gives you a look at some of the plants used by the inhabitants of the mission.

The chapel, with its bell tower and elaborate alter, was destroyed by a storm in 1886. In 1909 the building was repaired and in the 1960s it underwent an extensive renovation. Today it is an active parish church.

San Juan also has a small museum featuring items found at the site and artifacts typically used by missionaries in Texas. The theme of San Juan is "The Mission as a Economic Center," and displays show how this self-sufficient mission worked with others to provide food and goods.

From Mission San Juan, head west on Mission Road to Ashley, turn left, then right on Espada Road. This will take you to the most remote spot on the trail: Mission Espada (10040 Espada). Located about nine miles from the downtown area, this mission was named for St. Francis of Assisi, founder of the order of Franciscans. The mission's full name is Mission San Francisco de la Espada.

This mission's theme is "The Mission as a Vocational Education Center," carried out through displays and demonstrations on the education of the Indians in blacksmithing, woodworking, and other vocational areas.

IF YOU GO

Getting There: If you start your visit at the Alamo, head south on Broadway (one block west of the one-way North Alamo Plaza). Broadway becomes Alamo Street when it crosses Commerce Street. Continue south on Alamo Street to the intersection of South St. Mary's Street. Turn left (south) and continue to the intersection of Mission Road. Here you'll see a Park Service sign for the Mission Trail. Turn right.

Sunday Services: When planning your visit, remember that these are active parish churches (unlike the Alamo). Services are conducted every Sunday, and respectful visitors are welcome. Mission San Juan has a Mariachi Mass every Sunday at noon; it is very popular with visitors.

Cost: Admission to the missions is free; donations are accepted.

For More Information: For more information on the Mission Trail and other San Antonio attractions, call the San Antonio Convention and Visitors Bureau, (800) 447-3372.

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