Dick's Last Resort, San Antonio

Dick's is the kind of place that makes some people nervous. It has a reputation as a swinging, fun-loving joint, the sort where the waiters and waitresses like to crack jokes and toss out matchbooks decorated with old photos of topless women. The type of place that suits up its diners with huge plastic bibs that proclaim "I Got Crabs at Dick's" or decorates its ladies' room with photos of scantily clad hunks.

But don't be afraid. The waiters and waitresses are actually very attentive, even nice. The bib is practical, especially when you start to wrap your hands around a beef rib that's large enough to have come from a mastodon. And the matchbooks, well, they'll be useful for lighting up conversations even months later.

We really didn't expect to find to find excellent barbecue in this always-packed RiverWalk eatery that is one of the highest-grossing restaurants in the state of Texas. What we found wasn't just excellent barbecue, it was some of the best we've had. This place serves up the kind of meals that even days later you think about with fond memories, wishing you could go back and order it all over again.

Located in the basement of the former Nix Hospital, the restaurant has both inside and outside seating (the latter is tough to get during good weather, but well worth the wait). If you dine inside, plan to sit at huge communal tables and enjoy some good blues played by some of the area's finest musicians. Don't expect your waiter to bring over a menu; it is written on a blackboard. If you have any questions, your waiter (whose name you'll be well acquainted with before you leave) will fill you in on the dishes. There are pork ribs and beef ribs (the largest we've had), barbecue chicken, and barbecue shrimp.

Everything here is served in small tin buckets on a tablecloth of white butcher paper. Don't be shy, just dig in and enjoy. The pork ribs are fall-off-the-bone tender, and the beef ribs are meaty and smoky. The shrimp are jumbo, served three each on a skewer and slathered with sauce. The dishes are served with a bucket of french fries and bread. Save room for the desserts: Mississippi mud pie, cheesecake, and that Texas favorite, pecan pie.

Whether you're in a mood to be cheered up, looking for an excuse to visit the RiverWalk, or just wanting some unbeatable barbecue, head to Dick's. This restaurant won't be your last resort.

Location: 406 Navarro St. (on the River Walk)

Telephone: (210) 224-0026

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